With our 171 years in tailoring, we know there’s loads of jargon associated with the craft that might need explaining. And since it’s our job at Moss to make you look and feel your best, we wanted to demystify a couple of tailoring terms to make the process a bit more approachable: half-canvas vs. full-canvas construction.
When it comes to buying a blazer, you can choose between two different interlining styles, one called half canvas and one called full canvas. Each one will make your jacket sit and fit slightly differently. Read on to learn more about these two different options and find out which one might be right for you and your jacket.
Canvas, or canvas interlining, is a particular kind of fabric that sits between the outside of your blazer and the visible lining on the inside. You can see where exactly it would sit in two different jackets above. Typically made with a blend of horsehair and cotton, canvas offers structure and support to the jacket. It affects the way the jacket hangs or drapes on your body, which can make it more flattering. As well, when a jacket is interlined with canvas, it’ll likely last longer and retain its shape longer.
But, what exactly is the difference between having a jacket half lined or fully lined with canvas? You can see the visual difference in our handy diagram above. The jacket on the left has a half-canvas construction, and the one on the right shows what a full-canvas construction looks like. Below, we explain the differences and relative benefits of each.
As we’ve touched on above, a jacket with a half-canvas construction only has that canvas interlining from the shoulder down to the waist. With half-canvas, you’ll get a nice, structured shoulder and a slight tapering towards the waist. The jacket in the image above is another great example of a half-canvas construction. You can see that stronger shoulder and the curve towards the waist more so than you might in a jacket without a canvas interlining.
Typically, because there is less canvas and less work involved with this style of jacket, you can expect to pay a little less than a fully-canvassed jacket. It will also feel less heavy than a full-canvas and slightly less structured. Relative to a jacket without canvas, it will feel more substantial and will likely fit better.
As with a half-canvas jacket, will full canvas, you’re getting lots of structure through the shoulders and through the body of the jacket. But, that structure runs even further down the front, allowing for an even better fit and drape. You’ll also get a more durable jacket that will stand up to decades of wear and dry-cleaning. The only negatives with full-canvas are the added cost and production time.
At Moss, we don’t currently offer off-the-rack full-canvas jackets. But, if you are considering our Custom Made service, you can request a full-canvas lining if you’re looking for extra structure and durability. Again, it will cost a bit more and the production time will be a bit longer.
Whatever you choose, there are benefits and downsides to both half and full-canvas jackets. But, as always, if you get the fit right and you love the fabric and finishings, chances are, you’ll wear it for years to come.
